Times are changing, but we want to pass the atmosphere of this port to the next generation.

「An interview with Ms.Masae Yamaji, the landlady of Nasu no Hana

It’s been 20 years since ‘Nasu no Hana’ opened in Nishi-Hirayamacho. Ms.Masae Yamaji, the landlady, started operating this restaurant with her husband when she was in the 30s.
She was born in a fisherman’s family and has seen this town for more than 50 years from her childhood.
There were many changes in 20 years after the opening of the restaurant, she said.
Ms.Yamaji has seen the transitions of this town for a long time, and she told us what she feels now.

Increasing restaurants in the neighborhood don't mean increased competition.

How long has it been since you started this restaurant?

We have opened since 2000, so it’s been precisely 20 years.

What motivated you?

My mother and I operated a restaurant called ''Kabocha(pumpkin)'' at Fujimicho. This restaurant is the annex. That’s why the name is ''Nasu no Hana(eggplant's flower)'' related to vegetables.

Have you always been working in the food and beverage industry?

Me? I originally was a fishmonger. My father was a fisherman, that's why. Then I started another restaurant, 'Kabocha' with my mother, which brought me here. I was just going with the flow.

Why did you choose this place?

Without any specific reason. My husband somehow chose.

Until a little time ago, among our generation, a hidden restaurant on a back alley where people take their shoes off was in fashion. Those were more popular than a restaurant beside big streets.
Now Yushokuboya(restaurant) is next to us, but at that time, there was Marunaka(supermarket). That means we could introduce here as "on the back alley of Marunaka." Furthermore, there is the sea nearby so that we can get fishes easily.

I see. You mentioned Yushokuboya, and has the number of customers changed after its opening?

First of all, 20 years ago was the time after the bubble economy went flat, but there was still no penalty for drunk driving. Therefore, we had been having different customer flow than nowadays. We influenced by the punishment for drunk driving. Because of that penalty, those customers who stopped by after working, or who live far from here stopped coming. The orders of alcohol went down in consequence.

I'm not sure about the influence of Yushokuboya's opening. Customers with their families might have decreased. Not only Yushokuboya but also the conveyor-belt sushi restaurant and the Yakiniku buffet restaurant have opened. If people would drive, those are also accessible. The time was changed. I felt the customer base has gradually been simplified.

You know what, that doesn't mean there are only negative aspects. By Yushokuboya, we can sometimes have extra guests as if it advertise us.
"The next door was fully booked," or "we had a meeting at Yushokuboya before we came here," the customers say. I thought there was a synergistic effect. I got a little nervous first, when I was informed about the restaurant beside us. However, I guess it might be better to be lined with restaurants. Until then, after Marunaka was closed and became empty, it was dark at night around here with many warehouses. A guest from another prefecture said to me once, "It seems like a ghost town."

Things I feel now after 20 years

The number of shops might have increased, or the range of customer base might have changed in the past 20 years, I guess. What kind of changes do you feel now?

Well, I might be choosing the wrong words in saying this, but the tendency in which people sell foods cheaply stands out in the whole society, I think. It's ok to sell cheap clothes, but I doubt if it's ok to sell cheap food. In my opinion, the things people eat shouldn't be sold cheaply.

Because more customers ask me some ingredients than ever. Especially, fewer customers know about fishes. They don't ask about prawns, though, because it's obvious. I imagine that they haven't eaten those fishes in their childhood. It is natural for a person not to understand the values of fishes without any pieces of knowledge, but I feel kind of sad.

Moreover, the number of customers who can't eat raw fishes are increasing. Some customers orders dish only with meat for the party. I was surprised at first.

You may want to say, " Our restaurant is a fish specialty restaurant."

Yeah, but I also feel the time has changed. That’s why we have tried to deal with it, and we serve steak and tempura for lunchtime.

What would you serve for our lunch today?

This is called fisherman's bowl set, which our repeat customers often order. The prices on our lunch menu are a little high around 1,000 yen to 1,500 yen. At one time, we had been served with 780 yen to adjust to the average price around here. However, it's difficult to serve many since we don't have many employees.
Then we started to serve at a higher price and with coffee and let customers stay longer and relaxed. We had worried about the decreasing of customers, but actually, on the contrary, they keep coming.　

You mean, if it would taste good, they would come?

Well, it depends on what customers feel, but I want to serve what I want to eat, and I shouldn't serve what I don't want to. It's simple. It really is. That's the only thing I can do.

I want to make a place where senior citizens living in this town can have fun

Would you tell me about your prospect in the future?

I don't have so many prospects at my age, but I want to operate here by myself for the senior citizens.

The senior citizens?

Yes, to be honest. There are many senior citizens around here. There are no restaurants where they can go, though, because more and more restaurants closed down. Sadly, this town is not enjoyable for senior citizens anymore.
I was talking with an old lady in neighbor yesterday, and she said to me," I wonder if there are any restaurants I can go near here?" , so I said, "Our restaurant may be the only one."

I see. When you say ‘senior citizens’, how old are they supposed to be, for example?

In their 60s or 70s, maybe. It is said that the range of the customer base is between 10 years old younger or older than the owners' age. When I think of the owner's age, there is one restaurant called Fujichan in Kitahirayamacho, which has a 70-year-old owner. That’s the only one.
 Until a little while ago, it was a good old day, and there were many taverns where the elderly owner was operating. We called those taverns 'Koshikake' at that time. It was really lively there.

The customers at that time came to those taverns not only for eating but also talking with others, so they sometimes bought me a drink at counter seats like, "You should drink, too." They also enjoyed talking with customers sitting to the next. We can't see those communications anymore.
I have impressions now that fewer customers here can communicate in that way than before.

Do you have any customers here who visit by themselves?

It's been decreasing. We mainly operate for parties and business meetings, so a customer who came by themselves doesn't feel so relaxed, I guess.
The way customers spend time has changed. At Japanese cuisine restaurants like here, people used to prefer counter seats. However, they prefer private rooms recently. Private rooms became popular suddenly at some point.

That's why our counter seats are rarely used. Even some customers who come by themselves sometimes prefer a private room. I'm not sure that's because they have smartphones now.

Really? I am personally eager to choose a counter seat to have conversations with people. I got surprised by the fact.

 I think a person like you is rare. Maybe it also depends on their age. Actually, it's easier for me because I don't have to cope with conversations. Apart from repeat customers, I consider how I should interact with customers who visit for the first time. It's easier for me without those concerns. I just feel, "The time has changed."

Well, I want to be flexible and deal with it as possible as I can.

What do you want this port town to be in the future?

Hopefully, people will keep this town's attractions. The atmosphere made by the port, and fisherman's boats, which dropping anchors, and people living in this town. I hope that the scenery will be remaining even if the time will have changed. Recently there are fewer children than ever, and it seems like fewer dogs and cats.

Since it's a castle town and a port town, there is a good atmosphere, and I hope younger generations try to keep them.

「By her words 'kind of sad', I realized there always be some cherish things people lose by transience, without any exceptions. It happens to everyone.
Whereas she said that she wants to support younger owners in the port town, and she has expectations in the future town. She is easy to talk and straightforward; I fascinated with her. Thank you for your cooperation.