"I hope this town will remain as it is."

An interview with Ms.Yasuko Okazaki, the manager of 'Udon restaurant WATAYA'

People standing in a line in front of WATAYA at lunchtime are impressive. This restaurant is famous for "Niku-bukkake-Udon," which is an Udon noodle in hot soup with beef or pork on top. It has opened since 1997, and they serve Udon noodles every day with the same recipe, which is passed down from the previous generation. Ms.Yasuko Okazaki and her husband took over the restaurant three years ago, following her parents, who started the Udon restaurant in this town. Ms.Okazaki has spent most of her life in this port town in Marugame, and she told us her story.

The Udon restaurant originated in the previous generation's side job.

Please tell me what motivated you to work here?

My parents, as a previous generation started this restaurant, then my husband and I took it over three years ago. It has been 11 years since I began working here.
When I got married, I motivated to work here. I was an office worker until that time, and I often came home late. I doubted I could manage both family and work. In opposition, I could start to work here like "Ok, I'll do this," without any hesitation, because I had been watching my mother was working here.

Did your husband start at the same time?

I had worked with my parents a little while; then, my husband joined when we got married. We thought, "We will manage this restaurant in the future," and my husband also quit his job and started to work with us.

How was it like when they had just started? I know you were not working yet, so tell me about that as far as you can.

My parents didn't advertise at all before the opening. So, there had been ten customers or less per day at the start.
One day, we had an opportunity to appear on a TV show called "Udon pilgrimage" by the RNC Nishinippon Broadcasting. Next weekend after the broadcast, the number of customers increased straight away. About 40 seats occupied shortly, the restaurant was filled with customers, and people were lining up outside. There was nothing that we could do. So I talked about the situation to my boss and ended up helping my parents at every lunchtime, besides being an office worker. After the busiest moment, I went back to my office. That became a routine for a while.

You were very tough!

I was just trying. We became busy suddenly. Having said that, it takes some time to hire new staff. I appreciated my boss understood my situation.

When the second restaurant was opened, I was skeptical. "I don't think we will have so many customers."

You relocated the restaurant from Nishi-hirayama to Kita-hirayama. Was it because of increasing customers?

That's right. Our restaurant was getting crowded, and that made customers and our neighbors bothered, so we began to look for a place to move in. Then, Testudo-Kogyo introduced this place to us. It was perfect timing.
This building was used to be a warehouse. In those days, there were few restaurants around here. The place where Yushokuboya is standing now was a supermarket. People came to the supermarket, but no one was walking on side streets. Moreover, the warehouse was huge. "Such a big place, there are not so many customers we expect," I thought, at first sight. Anyway, "Though this place is so much more than we have now, why don't we try?" Just like that, we decided.

So you thought that would be challenging, right?

It was challenging. Now we have 130 seats compared to the previous restaurant, which had 40 seats, it was more than three times bigger. That was definitely challenging.

Didn't you consider other places?

No, we didn't. The former restaurant was in Nishi-hirayama, and we had customers who were neighbors. The distance from our home was also important, so there was no choice in another area at all.

How was it going after the opening?

The customers who used to come to the previous location also visited the new restaurant, so more people were coming and going streets during day time. Our customers were increasing little by little.
On the other hand, many people were lining up outside. Due to a lacking of a parking lot, some customers parked on the road. And our neighbors were annoyed so much. After a year passed, the environment of the parking lot was settled and became calm, I guess.
Because the neighbors were trying not to visit at crowded hours, we had time to talk with them and made our relationships gradually. At lunchtime, the parking lot is filled with cars. On the contrary, bicycles line up in front of the restaurant in the morning.

It is difficult, that's why we maintain the same condition.

You took over this restaurant three years ago, and what is your perspective for the future?

We maintain the same condition. I don't think we will expand.

You said clearly. Why not?

It is natural, but my idea and the way I feel at the restaurant have changed after we took over. Up until now, I didn't notice some matters, but now I often think like, "I need to concern about this issue."
It would remain the same, only after trying to expand, I guess. It's challenging to maintain, so I'm happy if we could maintain the same condition in the future.

I see. What made you think like that?

There was a period we often appeared on TV programs which introduced restaurants. As a result, it became crowded with tourists. But it had not lasted long, and few customers remained after back to everyday life. The customers who used to come were gone actually. I thought our restaurant became uncomfortable for locals. I regretted at that moment. Since then, I stopped appearing on TV.
Now we have SNS but trying not to rely on it so much. I want to operate the restaurant by taking care of customers who often come to this area.

Thanks a lot. You grew up here, got married, and now you are working, raising children and living life here. You have spent most of your life here.
What do you want this town to be like in the future?

……

Well, you look a bit sad.

I know I should have lived in a big city. I really think so. I wonder why I hadn't.
I guess it was comfortable to live here, though. For instance, when I have to go to Osaka, Marugame station is close, the train takes me to Okayama in a short time. By taking Shinkansen, it takes only one hour and a half. We can come back on the same day, and that means a lot. I rarely have a problem with living here.

***

Ms. Okazaki has spent more than decades in this port town since she was born. This town is and has always been and will be here for her―nothing more and nothing less. As a community-based Udon restaurant, it would support this town, which is changing with time. We are on your side! Thank you very much.